Other people’s prose:
Customers enter the room, a brightly colored rectangle, near Lexington and 52nd, and it spreads south and west before them. Not very good paintings of Venetian scenes adorn the walls in that peculiar French manner that combines bad taste with deep sophistication. Banquettes line the place, with pockets of bistro tables set tightly between them, everything slightly smaller than it would be in a restaurant owned by Americans.
Sam Sifton reviewing Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte in the New York Times.